Why We Cook With Wood — And Why It Matters

Oak, mango wood and a 400°C grill — what live fire does to flavour

12 Aug 2026 · 6 min read · By Chef Arjun Mehta

Flames on the wood-fired grill

We didn't choose wood because it looks good on Instagram — though at 7pm, when the grill glows amber and the dining room smells of oak, it does. We chose it because gas can't do what wood does at 320°C: caramelise sugars quickly enough to create a crust while keeping the inside juicy.

Our grill runs on mango wood and oak, sourced from pruned orchards around Jaipur. Mango wood burns hot and fast, good for a quick char. Oak burns slower and smokes more, perfect for the burrata and the longer meats. We mix them through the service — mango for the sear, oak for the perfume.

The first hour

Every morning, Vikram lights the grill at 9:15am with newspaper, a little ghee and one log. No kerosene. No shortcuts. The grill needs 90 minutes to come to temperature and another 30 to settle. By 11am the grate is white with ash — that's when we know it's ready.

"You can hear when the grill is ready. The sizzle changes — it goes from a hiss to a crack." — Vikram, Tandoor lead

Why not charcoal alone?

Charcoal is efficient, but it burns clean — too clean. Wood brings volatile compounds: syringol, guaiacol, traces of vanilla from the lignin. In plain language: flavour. The difference is why a naan from a wood-fired tandoor tastes like bread and smoke, not just bread.

What we protect

  • Flame distance matters. We keep proteins at least 12cm from the flame; vegetables closer for a faster blister.
  • Rest is non-negotiable. Every grill cut rests for half its cook time. The board does as much work as the fire.
  • We clean with wire, not water. Water splits the cast iron over time. The brush keeps the seasoning.

Next time you're here, ask for the kitchen counter seats. You'll feel the heat on your face and hear the tickets firing. Sit through one full service and you'll understand why we never considered gas.

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